being there: Inside Nablus

Nablus is a hustling and bustling city of just over 100,000 people. It has two large cliffs on either side of the city which help one's initial orientation significantly.I have slowly found my bearings over the past three weeks in the city. My day often begins with the call to prayer at 5am, which more often than not wakes me up. The volume of the call far outweighs the quality of the speakers used, making it a harsh start to the day. In many ways, the call to prayer represents the religious atmosphere of Nablus. Everyone is a Muslim, there is no concept of not participating in the religion of the culture. Sure, you may get the odd person who is of another religion, but everyone has a religion. Religion is a communal activity, not a choice the individual opts into. The call to prayer is a message to the entire population that it is time for prayer (though some (many?) no doubt go back to sleep in the privacy of their own homes rather than get up).

Felafel sandwiches are 3 shekels here - about $1 NZ, making lunch very easy and very oily. From Saturday to Wednesday I teach, and Thursday and Friday is the weekend. The result of this is that I never know what day it is. Two days a week myself and another volunteer catch a servie (taxi van) to a neighbouring town to teach at a primary school there. Teaching 35 five year olds who don't speak any English is just about as challenging as teaching teenage girls. The principal in Tubas is a well traveled and educated individual who cares passionately about the school and has lost all faith in Palestinian politics. He is great to talk to. Another two days a week a few of us head into the universities to initiate conversations in English with those seeking to improve their speaking skills. This is a highlight, as many of the students have an insightful and thoughtful perspective on Palestine and the world (though most think New Zealand is in Europe somewhere). Although one can run out of things to talk about over the course of a 2 or 3 hour conversation, I have learnt a great deal about Palestinian culture and the thinking patterns of Palestinians. In the afternoons I teach beginner adult classes at 2 hour lessons a pop. I have met a few interesting characters in these classes, and I can't work out whether this is due to cultural differences, or they are just universally strange.Learning how to teach English has been a challenge, but in general people have been very patient and interested in learning. Being patient with my kiwi accent is also a struggle for many, but I am trying hard to pronounce my r's and vowels correctly.

View of Nablus from Project Hope office

The cultural attitude toward foreigners is variable. Many in Nablus are extremely friendly and welcoming, and I have been to dinner at a few homes now. People are often fascinated to know where you have come from, why you are here, and what you think of Palestinians. "Do you think we are all terrorists back home" is a common question I get. I guess that's the way they understand their image to be overseas, which probably does not do a great deal of good to the self-esteem of a nation. Others, fewer in number, seem less welcoming of foreigners, probably wondering what on earth you are doing here and suspicious of your links with Israel. I think it is harder to be a female tourist here, as you generate a lot more attention. I am yet to walk through the streets in indistinguishable drag, but I have walked with other female volunteers which has led me to this conclusion. It was interesting spending time at a local's house recently when he asked one of the female volunteers whether she had had any unfavourable attention from the males while in Nablus. When she replied that she had on occasions, one could see his disappointment and annoyance. It is not part of the culture to be rude to women, but there are always a few bad eggs in any country. Overall, there have been times when I have simply wanted a middle ground of indifference; the west tends to ignore everybody rather than welcoming or leering at them. But maybe the numerous experiences of friendliness makes the leering worth while.

Some local street graffiti.

Nablus is a beautiful place, but I have struggled with the waste system here, perhaps because there is no waste system here. I cannot work out if this is due to occupation, which has disabled Palestine from caring for their own land, or if it is because of the culture of the place. Rubbish litters the streets and countryside, and it is a sorry sight. There is plenty of agriculture, and Palestinians seem quite in touch with the land. Many, too, appreciate the beauty of their land. It is strange, then, that more concern is not placed in preserving this nature and reducing waste and environmental impact. In fact, I believe an organised drive to clean up and care for the land is one of the better acts of resistance that Palestinians could do. I was bold enough to raise the point in the university, and was met with a series of responses bemoaning peoples attitude toward littering. I guess many locals feel the same way. I just wonder if anything will change though. There are many good ideas in Palestine, but sometimes action and organisation is greatly lacking. I've met many environmental engineering students here, I hope they get together and change Palestine's future before it becomes a rubbish dump.

I was asked to give a talk about New Zealand at the university next Wednesday. The university also suggested I make a flyer to promote the event. I couldn't resist the opportunity...

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